A food lover’s guide to Lima

Lima rarely finds itself listed alongside Tokyo or Paris. But if the route to the heart is through the stomach, Lima, with her distinctive kitchen, is every bit as alluring as her Asian and European peers, writes David Prior in ‘Peru on a Plate’, his story on the city’s evolving food culture on page 75 of our current issue – Vogue Living May/June.
David has put together this web exclusive: a list of the best spots to experience Lima and its evolving food culture. Map illustration by Kanako Kuno.
Map of Lima by Kanako Kuno.
EAT

1. Anticuchos de la Tia Grima
For years the elderly Doña Grimanesa Vargas grilled her perfect anticuchos (marinated beef hearts on skewers) on the side of the road in the same spot. As her fame grew so the lines grew and snaked around the block. Her rise from street vendor to celebrity epitomises the growing national pride in food that transcends old class divisions.
Calle Ignacio Merino 466, Miraflores.

2. La Mar
There are said to be 2000 cebicherias in Lima alone serving the national dish ceviche (cebiche in Spanish). Gastón Acurio’s La Mar is probably the most famous and for good reason; ceviche has been deconstructed, refined and perfected here.
Av. La Mar 770, Miraflores. lamarcebicheria.com.

3. Central
Talented chef Virgilio Martinez is one part skate-boarding, indie-cool kid, the other part somewhat bookish student of the culinary arts. Those two aspects reconcile at Central restaurant, where the food is meticulous and the scene exciting.
Calle Santa Isabel 376, Miraflores. centralrestaurante.com.pe.

4. Chez Wong
Perfect Asian-influenced dishes served in an eccentric, no-menu little bolthole from charismatic chef/owner Javier Wong.
Calle Enrique León García 114.

5. El Cordano
This little European-style bar adjacent to Lima’s presidential palace has seen the dramatic comings-and-goings of dictators and their regimes, though it remains steadfastly the same.
Ancash 202.

6. Malabar
The bricks and mortar of Pedro Miguel Schiaffino’s restaurant feels like it could be located anywhere in the world. The food, however, is directly of the place. Unusual Amazonian ingredients given a ‘chefy’ international polish.
‪Calle Camino Real 101, San Isidro. malabar.com.pe.

7. Panchita
Gastón Acurio’s ever-expanding empire of restaurants includes this ‘salute to Peruvian street food’. While the expansive space is family orientated and can appear a little gimmicky, the food proves that the ‘Godfather’ is still very much in control.
Av. Dos de Mayo 298, Miraflores.

DRINK

8. Pisco Bar
Be warned: pisco sours are like breasts, one is not enough and three is too many.
Calle Cantuarias 152, Miraflores.

SEE

9. A Taste of Peru
Lima’s scale and diversity can be very hostile to the unprepared ‘travel eater’, however, gorgeous gastronomic guide Penelope Alzamora is on hand to avoid any fatal missteps with her depth of local knowledge and enviable black book.
atasteofperu.com.

STAY

10. Hotel Second Home Peru
The family of legendary sculptor Victor Delfin converted its art-filled, cliff-top mansion into a small hotel. It’s where travellers who prefer a little ‘character’ in their accommodation have (rightly) chosen to stay.
Domeyer 366, Barranco. secondhomeperu.com.

Read more about the South American adventures of our intrepid explorers, David Prior and photographer Pablo Zamora, within Vogue Living May/June 2012, on news stands and Zinio now.

Text: David Prior
Illustration: Kanako Kuno

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Comments
One Response to “A food lover’s guide to Lima”
  1. Raquel Huertas del Pino says:

    This picture is from one of my favorite places in the whole world. A Cevicheria Restaurant called Canta Rana , opened more than 25 years in Lima´s bohemian district of Barranco. They have the most amazing Ceviche and make great sea food, pasta and meat dishes. Décor is a colletion of pictures & stuff, Futbol Family & Friends are three life passions of its owner Vicente Furgiuele, who´s charisma makes this place unique. I love to visit my uncle Vicente. Te quiero Vicho

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